A new camera, now what?

[jane_t]

Does that mean I should be using the tripod for those kinds of shots? Its only happening in the landscape shots....shots that have some distance to them.

There are several reasons for unsharp images,  camera shake is only one, it could be incorrect Aperture , Focus Point or shutter speed.

Why not post an example here with the settings you used,  ie  shutter speed, ISO, Aperture

[BigAl]

It's unlikely to be camera shake unless you are taking the shot in noticeably low light (ie darker than a dull afternoon) or you have very shaky hands. Look at the EXIF data of those shots to see what the exposure speed was. Most 'steady' photographers will be able to get sharp hand-held shots at 1/25th second.

It may be that you are in manual focus mode or that you are pressing the button so fast that you're not giving the lens a chance to lock on to the subject.

[Sheryl]

I'm still shooting in auto mode right now as I haven't had time to learn all the other settings just yet.

[RGBont]

Every growing list eh Sheryl....   

Got a little chuckle out of your misadventure...   

I wouldn't worry about the 10-20mm for a while.  I didn't pick up mine until a two or three years after I picked up my D300.  You could always salt away a note or two until it comes time to buy it - maybe open up a separate bank account for that so that you won't be tempted to spend it from your general account.  Years ago a bank that had this Christmas Club savings plan - a little booklet that contained so many leaves depending on the savings plan.  You pay in the amount on the slip, say for $100, it was $2 for each slip for 50 weeks.  Was a painless way to save up.

Yes, by all means post some of the pictures you are talking about.  When we can see the exif info then we could have an idea of what is going on.  Keep practicing....    And yes, continue with Auto and when you are comfortable with that setting then move on to the next one.  On occassions you probably can shoot for a particular subject in Auto and then move off to one of the other settings and see what you get or even make better.

[Sheryl]

Thanks RG for the words of encouragement. I didn't notice the blurriness until I went to crop the photos. Maybe I'm just cropping them too close up and that is causing the blur? I don't know how to post the photos I'm talking about for you all to view. I took the camera off auto one time and messed with aperture and then went back to auto and wondered if that messed something up. I haven't found a default setting on the camera.

[jane_t]

See http://www.photography-cafe.com/forum/index.php?topic=327.0  to learn how to attach images to a thread.

You should be able to see your exif data for your images on your PC, even if it's in automode the information will be recorded,  and I suspect is available for you to see when you shoot.

[RockArea]

On of the things that catches me out on my camera, and I think it may be specific to Nikon, is that on the left side of the camera body where the lens attaches, there is a switch to change from Autofocus to Manual. Sometimes, particularly when changing lenses, you can catch the switch and set it to manual focus. You will then be liable to get out of focus photos. It's worth checking often. I consider it to be a Nikon design fault.

David

[Sheryl]

Thank you Jane and David. I will be sure to check and make sure the focus in on auto, not manual. Another beginner's question. What is exif? I really need to find a book that explains all these terms and features and how to use them in what circumstances. I have no clue when to use a fast or slow shutter speed. I have no clue when to use a large or small aperture. I need a book that can teach me those kinds of things. I don't want to stay on auto for very long. I've been doing auto with the digital for a couple of years and I'd like to learn how to do some things manually. I want more control.

            Thanks,
           Sheryl


                   

[Anita]

Sheryl, this site explains about exif. It's a really good site & easy to understand.

http://www.digicamhelp.com/glossary/exif-data/

[Sheryl]

Here is a photo I took that shows that its just not quite sharp. Its uncropped and untreated.

[Sheryl]

Sorry ,the wrong photo popped up. Let me try again.

[Sheryl]

Well, you can see that the uncropped and cropped versions are both not sharp.

Thanks Anita for the link. You're the go-to girl! 

[Anita]

Your quite welcome Sheryl! That site is chocked full of photography terms as well.. with the definitions for all of them, very handy site. 

[Pipeman]

Sheryl, here's an item I wrote sometime ago for another photo site. It might be of help.

Handling an SLR camera

The change from a compact camera to a DSLR is a big one, and many newcomers to DSLR photography are disappointed with their early results, because of blurred photographs and camera shake.

The major reason for this is that the technique of handling a DSLR and actually taking a photograph with it is different, and needs practice and patience.

A DSLR is not held in the same way as a compact. A DSLR is built differently, lenses are larger and stick out considerably at the front of the camera.

It is not recommended to hold a DSLR by the body alone, leaving the lens waving around like a flag at a coronation.

The right hand should fit comfortably around the right hand side of the body with the index finger cocked over or resting on the shutter button, whilst the left hand needs to be under the lens, be it the kit lens or a telephoto, to support it. Historically, SLR users needed to do this in order to focus the lens in the days before autofocus, but it also prevents the weight of the lens spraining the connections to the camera body. It gives the camera some of the stability needed for sharp photographs.

So much for the camera, but what about you, the photographer?

Camera shake is not common with compacts due to the lightness of the instrument but the DSLR is a heavier beast and needs support to steady it and give sharp images.

Despite the advent of Image Stabilisation lenses and the extensive use of tripods, a reasonably competent photographer should be able to hand hold the kit lens to at least 1/30th second without problems.

The photographer should think of themselves as a tripod and work accordingly:

Feet slightly apart, a foot to 18 inches I suggest.
Elbows tucked in to your sides.
Viewfinder tight to your right eye and hands relaxed.
If there is a wall or lamp post behind you, lean on it.
Compose the image.
Press the shutter button half way down to effect auto focus, and press down completely when you are satisfied. Do it gently without stabbing.

All these soon become second nature.

Remember also that your lens has a minimum focussing distance and even if you see a good image in the viewfinder there is no guarantee that it is going to be really sharp until the autofocus has locked on.

Learning the basics of taking photographs with a DSLR is important in the quest for good and sharp images.
Time spent on this is time well spent.

[Sheryl]

Thanks so much Ron. I appreciate the lesson. I've been following those rules pretty much to the "T". I do wish they made cameras for lefties though. It would make it a bit simpler for me . Its a bit awkward working everything with the right hand . But I have been holding the lens and keeping my elbows tucked in . I work the shutter button as you have mentioned. Maybe I'm still trying to get photos at too great a distance. I know I have some limitations with the lenses that I have. Maybe its just going to take some time to figure out what my lenses are capable of.

[Anita]

Sheryl,

I forgot that your camera also has; "18 guide mode shooting actions", as well. Here's another site that walks you through all of that & how to set your camera to a landscape setting, (or different ones), if you want to give that a try as well.
http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/lineup/digitalcamera/slr/d3100/features02.htm

[Sheryl]

Thanks Anita, you've been helpful as usual.

[BigAl]

...
Maybe I'm still trying to get photos at too great a distance.
...

All but a few specialists lenses focus to infinity. So if you have correctly focussed the lens at its infinity distance (shown by a symbol that looks like an '8' on its side) then anything over 50 metres away will be pin sharp if the camera is held steady. Focus blur only starts to occur when the subject and the focus are different distances. The more the difference, the more the focus blur.

Was it windy when you took the photos? It could be motion blur due to the branches swaying. That could be overcome by the same method as overcoming an unsteady hand - use a faster shutter speed.

[Sheryl]

Big Al, it was not windy at all that day. What do you mean "if the subject and the focus are different distances"? And remember the camera was on total auto. So it was auto focus . Sorry that I need that explained a little further. Its all so new to me. I feel like a five year old trying to learn at an 18 year old's level. I'm trying to do as much reading as possible to help me grasp it all a little better, but there's a lot of information to process.

            Sheryl

[BigAl]

If the subject is 2 metres away from the camera and the camera is focussed at 35 metres (or vice versa) then your subject will be out of focus. The only exception will be if you had set a high f-number to give a wide enough DOF to cover both subjects.