Sheryl
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« on: March 5, 2011, 12:21 AM » |
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I am officially the proud owner of a brand new bouncing Nikon D3100!!  Now what?  There is soooo much to learn. Where do I start? I know , first read the manual. Then what? Do I just shoot in auto for awhile or do I try playing around with the features? How do I learn to operate the camera? I wish I had someone that could teach me the settings and go shooting with me to help me learn.Do I just learn by trial and error? I guess what I'm asking is , is there an easy way to get started? What's the most important things to learn first? Where do I begin? This may all seem totally adolescent of me to ask, but I don't know the first thing about operating a dSLR.  Any advise would be greatly appreciated, Sheryl
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Zoot
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« Reply #1 on: March 5, 2011, 12:34 AM » |
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Go out and shoot something! Get used to your camera and where the controls are, and shoot in different modes to compare image quality/exposure etc - you may find it helpful to take short notes so that you can experiment further if your photographs are not to your liking. Auto is OK while you get a feel for the camera, but you'll soon want to move on to other modes so that you have more control over what you shoot. Above all, enjoy!
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If you think you are too old to Rock 'n' Roll - you are! All sax is good sax... Photography requires vision 
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windsurf
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« Reply #2 on: March 5, 2011, 12:44 AM » |
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I have to agree with Zoot here Take your camera and take pictures, try something Like Zoot says note what you did, Look at the results then move from there. Dont try to make these images spectacular at first Keep the simple, like a picture of your car or the house, a tree maybe just to get used to the camera its controls and most important What you want from it. But the most important thing is ENJOY it 
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A photo is a moment in time frozen for all to enjoy
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Sheryl
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« Reply #3 on: March 5, 2011, 12:54 AM » |
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Thanks Guys. I guess I'm afraid I'll mess up something in the camera and won't be able to get it straightened back out. I can't wait to start shooting! Just thought I should be a little better informed before I get started. I've just got the first time jitters. 
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scoundrel1728
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« Reply #6 on: March 5, 2011, 3:27 AM » |
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If you do mess something up and can't figure it out, there is most likely a menu item that lets you reset the camera to factory defaults. Look for it in the manual. I would also like to see a video of your "brand new bouncing Nikon D3100." If left to their own devices, most cameras just lie there in one spot. 
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RGBont
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« Reply #7 on: March 5, 2011, 3:40 AM » |
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Well done Sheryl!!  As noted what has already been said, yes by all means start taking pictures - see what happens, that's the nice thing about digital - if the first one is not good, take another. You're not limited to a 36-exposure roll of film....  Getting back to the camera club bit, also did you check if they have field trips, or workshops? With the one I attend, it is a large club with 135+ members, so we have workshops, field trips and a group that goes out on Wednesday Morning Walks (12 - 20, sometimes more, show up for a couple hours of walking and snapping away at different locations). Not to mention that it meets 4 times a month on Thursdays. That too is something to consider if they offer those things as then you can walk along with someone and ask questions as you take your pictures. Bonus would be with someone with the same camera!! Interesting sites as noted by Anita. By all means browse through them - there is always that one tidbit of info that you probably didn't know about. Definitely has some good tips!! Take your time and of course read through the manual that came with the camera. And of course if there is that occassional mess up, simply reset your camera back to its defaults - that should be in the manual somewhere.... but take your time with it - baby steps eh!! Read a page and then go over with it with the camera. Spring is just around the corner... Incidentally what lens did you get with your new acquisition?? PS - I take my time writing up this note and see Scoundrel has already mentioned what I just noted above about "messups".
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Zoot
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« Reply #8 on: March 5, 2011, 7:13 AM » |
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Something else that you will need to consider is memory cards. Your camera does not appear to be supplied with the SD memory card, but a safe bet would be to buy an 8GB card straight away (about £15.00, possibly less on E-bay) and a 16GB (£25.00 or less) as a backup. It is surprising how fast a memory card can fill up! Also, you will need lens cleaners - I recommend lens pens, but there are other products available. !
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If you think you are too old to Rock 'n' Roll - you are! All sax is good sax... Photography requires vision 
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jane_t
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« Reply #9 on: March 5, 2011, 9:00 AM » |
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Sheryl, I am glad you finally settled on one. As the others have said, play with the Camera, before you start take a note (or use your old camera to take pictures) of all the default positions for the knobs and the menu contents, that way you can always reset everything back.
Take lots of images and use your PC to look at the settings in the EXIF data to help you to learn what settings work.
As Henri Cartier-Bresson said "Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst. "
I now have 33,000 photos on my computer and I am still learning.
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BigAl
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« Reply #10 on: March 5, 2011, 9:33 AM » |
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I know it's worrying that you might do something wrong to ruin your new investment but you need to remember that the worst that could happen is that you make a minor feature change in the menu (like the length of time the image stays on the display) and then can't find how to change it back. Major features will always be easy to reset by the buttons and dials. Ultimately, you should be able to reset the camera by holding down two buttons (normally marked by green dots) at the same time.
Short of leaving the lens pointing directly into the sun with the shutter in long exposure, there is nothing non-physical that you can do to harm the camera. That will only happen if you abuse it in an obvious manner. Cameras are built to be used outdoors. They are quite robust.
Each photo that you take costs you a small fraction of a cent (in battery charge cost,) so you can click away without a qualm. You can start 'playing' with the new 'toy' straight away. Start experimenting with the controls - what does each one do, how did it affect the image compared to the previous one. When the changes are not obvious then turn to the manual to find out what the control is called, what it does and how to use it properly. In a few months time it will stop being a 'toy' and become a tool and then, instead of playing with it, you will be working with it to get the pictures that you want.
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RockArea
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« Reply #11 on: March 5, 2011, 10:41 AM » |
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Congratulations, Sheryl, I'm glad you've settled on something and I'm sure you won't regret it. I think you'll find that your camera has a 'help' button marked by a '?' so that when you move anywhere in the menu pressing the ? button will tell you what it is that you're doing.
Don't be surprised if your first photos with your new camera are actually worse than the ones you've been taking with your compact. There are lots of changes to adjust to but I'd say as well as messing about at home, get out there and take the same sort of photos you usually take with your camera set on 'Auto'. Next step is to move to 'P' which is like 'Auto' but you can make minor changes. Once you've got used to these settings you'll probably want to move on to taking more control.
Have fun!
David
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Pipeman
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« Reply #12 on: March 5, 2011, 11:02 AM » |
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Congratulations Sheryl - enjoy your new camera. 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #13 on: March 5, 2011, 2:37 PM » |
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Wow! Thanks everyone for all your kind words of support . Thanks Anita for the links. You know I always read what you send me! Its always a help. Scoundrel , I love your sense of humor! I'm goiing to need it I suspect. RgBont, our local camera club meets only once a month. Unfortunately they do not take field trips or have workshops. That would be wonderful if they did. They just give you a subject to shoot each month and then compare them and vote for their favorites. Its a very small town group and I imagine the group is quite small. I got the kit lens of course and then I also got a 55-200 lens as well. I just couldn't afford anything larger at this point. I hope I'll be satisfied with my choices for now. Thanks Jane for your words of encouragement. I know that in photography the learning never ends. That's part of what makes it so interesting and fun. Big Al, You always have a way about you that helps calm my nerves. You have made me feel less nervous about trying out the new camera and I thank you for that. I'm sure the manual won't be far away for quite some time! David, Thanks.I believe I've made the right choice for me and I think I'm going to love this camera once I get the hang of it! One question for now, do you all have your cameras serviced from time to time? I've been told its essential and I've just read in the manual that I should have it done on occasion.
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BigAl
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« Reply #14 on: March 5, 2011, 2:49 PM » |
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I've never had any service engineer touch a camera of mine.
The only service I did was cleaning the sensor. But that is a job I would say that you WOULD have to get done by a professional. It is done when you see any dark specks occurring in the same position on every picture. It is caused by dust or tiny hairs getting into the sensor well and on to the surface. You can reduce the likelihood of this happening by changing the lens whilst the camera is facing downwards.
Have you taken a photo yet?
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Sheryl
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« Reply #15 on: March 5, 2011, 2:57 PM » |
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I haven't taken a photo yet. I will be trying this afternoon if it would just stop raining. Its been absolutely pouring all night and morning. It shows no signs of stopping. I may have to wait until tomorrow. They're calling for sunshine. 
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pekster
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« Reply #16 on: March 5, 2011, 3:13 PM » |
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Excellent news Sheryl. I am glad you settled on a DSLR, as it will be a lot more versatile in the end. I think all bases have been covered here so far with the advice. Just go out and get shooting Richard
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #17 on: March 5, 2011, 4:38 PM » |
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Hi Sheryl, All the advice you have been given could take some time to be digested. It is all sound & pertinent to owning a New Camera & Not just a DSLR. What comes across to me is that you could damage your investment! Short of dropping it onto a hard surface you should be safe as has been said. Confidence will come thro' use, Handle the camera, twiddle the knobs, look at the menus---Play with it until You are happy handling it . Cameras don't bite (at least I have not been bittten by one over all these years) The Photography 'BUG' has bitten you & that could be the problem-- So Keen to get going-- remember slowly, slowy catchee monkey! David has given you the advice I would have given, Go to it & Let us see your attempts Mostly Just Enjoy you new Nikon & the two lenses both are good.  Harryh
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Sheryl
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« Reply #18 on: March 5, 2011, 5:15 PM » |
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Harry, what do you mean by "it could be a problem" that I've been bitten by the photography bug?
I have another question. Does anyone know what a Ferrite core is? I've got two with my camera kit and there's no explanation what they're for. It just shows a picture and says they're Ferrite cores. They're two different sizes.
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pekster
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« Reply #19 on: March 5, 2011, 5:30 PM » |
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Usually used for electrical cables to avoid interference. No idea why you would have got them with your camera Sheryl ??
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 who ate all the pies
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Sheryl
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« Reply #21 on: March 5, 2011, 8:02 PM » |
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Pekster, They're a mystery to me. They were in the same box as the charger and battery and camera strap. I have no clue why I have them? No cables were included in the kit.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #22 on: March 5, 2011, 8:09 PM » |
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Thanks so much for clearing that up Anita. Curious I got those but no cables. I've posted my first picture with the new camera in the gallery. Had to take an indoor one because of this beautiful rainy day we're having. Its in auto mode. Haven't got around to playing with anything else yet. 
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BigAl
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« Reply #23 on: March 5, 2011, 10:27 PM » |
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The only problem that you can get from being bitten by the camera bug is the one that drains your purse. Once you get to find out what images can be done with the D3100 you will be so delighted that you will be wanting to buy extras to extend the range of things you can cover.
How soon before you discover that you can fit filters for special effects?
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Sheryl
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« Reply #24 on: March 6, 2011, 12:09 AM » |
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You're right Big Al.I've already been wondering about a polarizing filter and there's another that sounded interesting. I think it is called a fish eye? . lol The camera bug will drain my husband's wallet! He's made it clear that after I get my tripod there's not going to be any more purchases for a very long time. We'll see. I'm sure there are other lenses I'm going to want such as wide angle , macro, telephoto.  Right now I'm just going to enjoy what I have and try to learn to be a better picture taker....composition.... Who knows , I may need to get a part time job just to have $ to spend on this hobby.  Sheryl
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #25 on: March 6, 2011, 5:58 AM » |
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Sheryl, Once you have been 'Bitten' photography nolonger is a hobby, as I was told many many years back by a then eminent photgrapher, 'It becomes a disease', this was just after Nancy & I married in 1954!
Note I am still suffering from it! Hope to pass it on to my grandsons 7 & 4.
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The more I practice the Luckier I get! -- Garry Player / Lee Trevino.
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scoundrel1728
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« Reply #26 on: March 6, 2011, 6:18 AM » |
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You're right Big Al.I've already been wondering about a polarizing filter and there's another that sounded interesting. I think it is called a fish eye?
You can get fisheye attachments for compact digital and bridge cameras such as Nikon's FC-E8 and FC-E9 that fit on the front of the existing lens; but the more usual approach for dSLRs is to get a regular fisheye lens. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=274&N=4293344976+4294185277+4277998923
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The power of coercion stops at the ability and the willingness of the coerced to take the penalty for disobedience. The power of love has no such limit. 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #27 on: March 6, 2011, 2:46 PM » |
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Harry, I do believe I've been bitten! Heaven help me! lol Scoundrel, you're right. After I posted that about the fisheye I remembered its a lens not a filter. My mistake. Thanks for the link. There's one more lens for the wish list. Its growing by the day! lol 
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #28 on: March 6, 2011, 3:29 PM » |
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Hi Sheryl, I have beforre me a Sirius Semi Fish-eye lens which screws into the front of your standard lens. It also can be used as a 10X close up lens by unscrewing the rear element. The filter thread is 52mm & fits the 18/55 Nikor I can give some interseting results. The quality is not the greatest but my pal & I use them from time to time Look them up on E-bay
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Plossl
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« Reply #29 on: March 6, 2011, 3:59 PM » |
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How about a POTD...............well done Sheryl On the new camera and your POTD 
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Amateurs worry about equipment, Professionals worry about time, Masters worry about light.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #30 on: March 6, 2011, 7:59 PM » |
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Harry, thanks for the info. My husband will shoot me if I start looking at lenses!  Plossl, Thanks for the congratulations. I'm really liking the new camera so far. Can't wait to learn how to use more features on it. 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #31 on: March 6, 2011, 8:55 PM » |
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Hey Harry, would love to see some photos taken with the fisheye lens. Care to share? You could post one in the gallery or send some to me through my email. My email is jitterbug452010@yahoo.com  Let me know if you send any to email because I don't check my email regularly.
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #32 on: March 7, 2011, 9:23 AM » |
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Hi Sheryl, I will have to go out & shoot some new images as I not used this item for so long. I mainly use my 10/20 Sigma for WA shots Start saving the $ for one (out of the grocery bill)!! 
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« Reply #33 on: March 7, 2011, 11:27 AM » |
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Harry, thanks for the info. My husband will shoot me if I start looking at lenses!  We have an old saying here in the UK, "Why spoil the ship for an a ha'porth of tar". You could try quoting that one to him.  Jack.....
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Sheryl
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« Reply #34 on: March 7, 2011, 2:29 PM » |
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Harry, I'd love it if you'd shoot some new photos with that lens. Can't wait to see the effect! My husband would definitely not appreciate me using grocery $ for my "hobby"!lol Jack, I'm not sure I get the quote entirely , but I'll give it a try! lol You guys are going to get me in a whole lot of trouble! lol But if you think of anything else that is a must have let me know. 
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BigAl
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« Reply #35 on: March 7, 2011, 5:08 PM » |
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The quote relates to the days when they built wooden ships. To make them watertight they would fill the joints with boiling tar that would go solid. If a boat builder wanted to save costs he could use a half-penny worth (ha'porth) of tar less than he should. But that could let in water and spoil the ship.
So the quote means: Don't spoil a really good thing through a small economy.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #36 on: March 8, 2011, 12:03 AM » |
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Thanks Big Al for explaining that UK saying. I thought it was something along those lines.  I'm going to need a new wardrobe if I'm not more careful when I go out shooting! I lost my shoes in a muddy , water-filled ditch. Then I muddied my sock trying to retrieve the shoes and then I fell on my knees in the mud. I did not get the photo I was after. That bug must have bitten me hard!
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #37 on: March 8, 2011, 8:00 AM » |
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Wellies! they help in muddy areas 
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« Reply #38 on: March 8, 2011, 10:58 AM » |
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Sheryl - many years ago I was giving a talk on Sports photography, a question was "what's the most important piece of equipment you use?" My answer - "A good pair of wellies!"
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Sheryl
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« Reply #39 on: March 8, 2011, 2:29 PM » |
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Thanks Guys! That may be my next piece of photo equipment. I can't seem to keep from getting myself into sticky situations! I've noticed some of my photos with the new camera are coming out not completely sharp. Does that mean I should be using the tripod for those kinds of shots? Its only happening in the landscape shots....shots that have some distance to them.
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jane_t
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« Reply #40 on: March 8, 2011, 3:06 PM » |
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Does that mean I should be using the tripod for those kinds of shots? Its only happening in the landscape shots....shots that have some distance to them. There are several reasons for unsharp images, camera shake is only one, it could be incorrect Aperture , Focus Point or shutter speed. Why not post an example here with the settings you used, ie shutter speed, ISO, Aperture
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BigAl
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« Reply #41 on: March 8, 2011, 3:11 PM » |
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It's unlikely to be camera shake unless you are taking the shot in noticeably low light (ie darker than a dull afternoon) or you have very shaky hands. Look at the EXIF data of those shots to see what the exposure speed was. Most 'steady' photographers will be able to get sharp hand-held shots at 1/25th second.
It may be that you are in manual focus mode or that you are pressing the button so fast that you're not giving the lens a chance to lock on to the subject.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #42 on: March 8, 2011, 3:19 PM » |
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I'm still shooting in auto mode right now as I haven't had time to learn all the other settings just yet.
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RGBont
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« Reply #43 on: March 8, 2011, 3:45 PM » |
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Every growing list eh Sheryl....  Got a little chuckle out of your misadventure...  I wouldn't worry about the 10-20mm for a while. I didn't pick up mine until a two or three years after I picked up my D300. You could always salt away a note or two until it comes time to buy it - maybe open up a separate bank account for that so that you won't be tempted to spend it from your general account. Years ago a bank that had this Christmas Club savings plan - a little booklet that contained so many leaves depending on the savings plan. You pay in the amount on the slip, say for $100, it was $2 for each slip for 50 weeks. Was a painless way to save up. Yes, by all means post some of the pictures you are talking about. When we can see the exif info then we could have an idea of what is going on. Keep practicing....  And yes, continue with Auto and when you are comfortable with that setting then move on to the next one. On occassions you probably can shoot for a particular subject in Auto and then move off to one of the other settings and see what you get or even make better.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #44 on: March 8, 2011, 3:58 PM » |
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Thanks RG for the words of encouragement. I didn't notice the blurriness until I went to crop the photos. Maybe I'm just cropping them too close up and that is causing the blur? I don't know how to post the photos I'm talking about for you all to view. I took the camera off auto one time and messed with aperture and then went back to auto and wondered if that messed something up. I haven't found a default setting on the camera.
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jane_t
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« Reply #45 on: March 8, 2011, 5:57 PM » |
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See http://www.photography-cafe.com/forum/index.php?topic=327.0 to learn how to attach images to a thread. You should be able to see your exif data for your images on your PC, even if it's in automode the information will be recorded, and I suspect is available for you to see when you shoot.
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« Reply #46 on: March 8, 2011, 6:59 PM » |
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On of the things that catches me out on my camera, and I think it may be specific to Nikon, is that on the left side of the camera body where the lens attaches, there is a switch to change from Autofocus to Manual. Sometimes, particularly when changing lenses, you can catch the switch and set it to manual focus. You will then be liable to get out of focus photos. It's worth checking often. I consider it to be a Nikon design fault.
David
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Sheryl
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« Reply #47 on: March 8, 2011, 7:49 PM » |
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Thank you Jane and David. I will be sure to check and make sure the focus in on auto, not manual. Another beginner's question. What is exif? I really need to find a book that explains all these terms and features and how to use them in what circumstances. I have no clue when to use a fast or slow shutter speed. I have no clue when to use a large or small aperture. I need a book that can teach me those kinds of things. I don't want to stay on auto for very long. I've been doing auto with the digital for a couple of years and I'd like to learn how to do some things manually. I want more control. Thanks, Sheryl
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Sheryl
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« Reply #49 on: March 8, 2011, 8:21 PM » |
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Here is a photo I took that shows that its just not quite sharp. Its uncropped and untreated.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #50 on: March 8, 2011, 8:24 PM » |
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Sorry ,the wrong photo popped up. Let me try again.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #51 on: March 8, 2011, 8:25 PM » |
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Well, you can see that the uncropped and cropped versions are both not sharp. Thanks Anita for the link. You're the go-to girl! 
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Pipeman
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« Reply #53 on: March 8, 2011, 9:04 PM » |
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Sheryl, here's an item I wrote sometime ago for another photo site. It might be of help.
Handling an SLR camera
The change from a compact camera to a DSLR is a big one, and many newcomers to DSLR photography are disappointed with their early results, because of blurred photographs and camera shake.
The major reason for this is that the technique of handling a DSLR and actually taking a photograph with it is different, and needs practice and patience.
A DSLR is not held in the same way as a compact. A DSLR is built differently, lenses are larger and stick out considerably at the front of the camera.
It is not recommended to hold a DSLR by the body alone, leaving the lens waving around like a flag at a coronation.
The right hand should fit comfortably around the right hand side of the body with the index finger cocked over or resting on the shutter button, whilst the left hand needs to be under the lens, be it the kit lens or a telephoto, to support it. Historically, SLR users needed to do this in order to focus the lens in the days before autofocus, but it also prevents the weight of the lens spraining the connections to the camera body. It gives the camera some of the stability needed for sharp photographs.
So much for the camera, but what about you, the photographer?
Camera shake is not common with compacts due to the lightness of the instrument but the DSLR is a heavier beast and needs support to steady it and give sharp images.
Despite the advent of Image Stabilisation lenses and the extensive use of tripods, a reasonably competent photographer should be able to hand hold the kit lens to at least 1/30th second without problems.
The photographer should think of themselves as a tripod and work accordingly:
Feet slightly apart, a foot to 18 inches I suggest. Elbows tucked in to your sides. Viewfinder tight to your right eye and hands relaxed. If there is a wall or lamp post behind you, lean on it. Compose the image. Press the shutter button half way down to effect auto focus, and press down completely when you are satisfied. Do it gently without stabbing.
All these soon become second nature.
Remember also that your lens has a minimum focussing distance and even if you see a good image in the viewfinder there is no guarantee that it is going to be really sharp until the autofocus has locked on.
Learning the basics of taking photographs with a DSLR is important in the quest for good and sharp images. Time spent on this is time well spent.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #54 on: March 8, 2011, 9:25 PM » |
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Thanks so much Ron. I appreciate the lesson. I've been following those rules pretty much to the "T". I do wish they made cameras for lefties though. It would make it a bit simpler for me . Its a bit awkward working everything with the right hand . But I have been holding the lens and keeping my elbows tucked in . I work the shutter button as you have mentioned. Maybe I'm still trying to get photos at too great a distance. I know I have some limitations with the lenses that I have. Maybe its just going to take some time to figure out what my lenses are capable of.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #56 on: March 8, 2011, 9:49 PM » |
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Thanks Anita, you've been helpful as usual. 
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BigAl
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« Reply #57 on: March 8, 2011, 9:52 PM » |
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... Maybe I'm still trying to get photos at too great a distance. ...
All but a few specialists lenses focus to infinity. So if you have correctly focussed the lens at its infinity distance (shown by a symbol that looks like an '8' on its side) then anything over 50 metres away will be pin sharp if the camera is held steady. Focus blur only starts to occur when the subject and the focus are different distances. The more the difference, the more the focus blur. Was it windy when you took the photos? It could be motion blur due to the branches swaying. That could be overcome by the same method as overcoming an unsteady hand - use a faster shutter speed.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #58 on: March 9, 2011, 12:05 AM » |
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Big Al, it was not windy at all that day. What do you mean "if the subject and the focus are different distances"? And remember the camera was on total auto. So it was auto focus . Sorry that I need that explained a little further. Its all so new to me. I feel like a five year old trying to learn at an 18 year old's level. I'm trying to do as much reading as possible to help me grasp it all a little better, but there's a lot of information to process. Sheryl 
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BigAl
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« Reply #59 on: March 9, 2011, 12:38 AM » |
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If the subject is 2 metres away from the camera and the camera is focussed at 35 metres (or vice versa) then your subject will be out of focus. The only exception will be if you had set a high f-number to give a wide enough DOF to cover both subjects.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #60 on: March 9, 2011, 12:57 AM » |
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Thanks Big Al. 
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« Reply #61 on: March 9, 2011, 1:23 AM » |
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Sheryl - I downloaded your photo to have a look at the exif data. Did it through Preview on my mac laptop and while I can't interpret the speed as it shows as 0.005 as exposure time but your ISO was set at 100. I did note this but this is at least my interpretation, others may have another view, so shall see Nikon Maker Notes Flash Exposure Compensation 0 Flash Setting NORMAL Focus Mode AF-A ISO Setting 0 100 Quality NORMAL White Balance Mode AUTO I note Focus Mode is at AF-A which is apparently the camera's default. I googled to find out what is does. Here are two sites I looked at. May be a bit of information overload. First one is a bit more explanatory than the 2nd one.... http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/camera/nikon-digital-slr/focus-modes.shtmlHere's the Nikon's explanation.... http://imaging.nikon.com/products/imaging/technology/basics/16/03.htmYes, it is a new ball game with a DSLR as noted earlier. As I said, take baby steps or go slow and try not to do too much all at once. I think there was a site mentioned earlier which outlined those kind of steps. The D90 certainly has more bells and whistles than a P&S so it is a learning curve. Reading through about AF-A by all accounts it should work but then I read that some camera users don't trust is as stated. I've got mine set at AF-S for most of my situations. I would suggest you try that at the same location if you can and see if it makes any difference. Again it is simply playing around. I believe there is also a sharpening function in one of the menu fuctions but I'm not familiar with the D90 to know what the setting values are. Again that is something you'll have fool around with at a later date. Here is a note I took from another website with regards to Camera Sharpening and left out the Sharpening features found on picture processing software. Camera sharpening By nature of the process used, digitizing images introduces some softness. Image detail is "averaged" into the pixels, this softens the overall image appearance. To counteract this, most digital cameras apply automatic sharpening during image processing in camera; edges are made more pronounced by increasing the contrast of adjacent pixels. The intensity of the sharpening can also be adjusted manually using the camera's menu settings in most Nikon digital cameras. In most cases the camera provides extremely good results and no further sharpening is required. Images are most pleasing when they are sharp and crisp, however over-sharpening results have an artificial look that is not pleasing. Nikon digital cameras perform a complicated image analyses during processing and apply the correct amount of sharpening required so the image is never over sharpened. Images can be sharpened further in an image editor programme such as Nikon View 6 or Nikon Capture if necessary, after they have been downloaded to computer. Guess enough information overload for you eh! Take your time... Ross
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shooters_desire
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« Reply #62 on: March 9, 2011, 3:22 AM » |
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Sheryl i'll let you in on a little secret. Set aside 10 to 20.00 each week or even 5.00. Over time you will have enough money to get another lens or more equipment. You may have to take it from the grocery money but i didn't say that did I... 
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"Worship God, because the testimony about Jesus is the spirit of prophecy." Rev 19:11 Then I saw heaven opened, and there was a white horse! Its rider is called Faithful and True, and in righteousness He judges and makes war. His eyes were like a fiery flame, and on His head were many crowns. He had a name written that no one knows except Himself. Rev 19:13 He wore a robe stained with blood, and His name is called the Word of God.
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scoundrel1728
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« Reply #63 on: March 9, 2011, 7:28 AM » |
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All three of my zoom lenses shift focus slighly, including infinity focus, when the zoom setting is changed. These lenses therefore need to be refocused when the zoom setting is changed. However, two of my three primes have a well-defined infinity focus. I am not sure about my Sigma 30mm f/1.4 "owl eye" yet.
According to the EXIF data, your image was taken at 1/200 sec @ f/8 @ ISO 100. Lens was set at 150mm and the maximum (physical) f-number was f/5.1. A slight bit of camera motion might have blurred your picture, but this would show up as a directionality in the blur, e.g. horizontal edges might be sharp but vertical ones are not. Specular, point-like highlights would show up not as points but short lines if this has happened. I see no evidence of motion blur, but there might be some. Indeed, the image does not look especially unsharp at all, given that there was no attempt to resharpen the image after reducing its size.
And here is the infinity symbol: ∞
You probably have a marking like that on your lens focus scale.
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BigAl
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« Reply #64 on: March 9, 2011, 9:20 AM » |
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I should now add the following: Many photographers will not set the lens at infinity when photographing a landscape because they will include some near objects as a supporting foreground. By focussing short of infinity they get more objects in focus.
It's not just objects 5 feet away that will be in focus when you set the lens at 5 feet. Focus will include objects closer and further than the set distance. That range is known as the Depth Of Field (DOF) and is controlled by the aperture (f-number) of the camera.
Including foreground objects helps the composition. See Pekster's album for some of the best examples of this style.
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Pipeman
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« Reply #65 on: March 9, 2011, 10:48 AM » |
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the "T". I do wish they made cameras for lefties though. It would make it a bit simpler for me . Its a bit awkward working everything with the right hand . We lefties have to be very adaptable, Sheryl! 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #66 on: March 9, 2011, 1:44 PM » |
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Ross , thanks for the links and taking the time to analyze my photo. Thanks for all the info as well. Yes, I'm a bit overloaded with all the information being thrown at me as well as all the digging I've been doing on my own. I think I need to stop and take a breather and just enjoy the camera in auto for awhile. David, Ha Ha! I can try to sneak away a bit at a time, but if I get caught I'm not taking the blame all by myself!  Scoundrel, thanks as always for your imput. You always bring a lot of helpful information to the table. Big Al, I agree about Pekster's photos and have even discussed his landscapes with him. However, when shooting a barn sitting in the middle of an open field , its hard to find something in the foreground to include. Ron, I agree! Its a right-handed world out there! Thanks guys for all your help, Sheryl 
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #67 on: March 9, 2011, 4:40 PM » |
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Hi Sheryl, Attached a couple of older shots from the fisheye.Have not got any new shots yet. Have been alittle under the weather so I am doing what Karen has told me to do Taking things easy for a day or so. 
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RockArea
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« Reply #68 on: March 9, 2011, 5:17 PM » |
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... Big Al, I agree about Pekster's photos and have even discussed his landscapes with him. However, when shooting a barn sitting in the middle of an open field , its hard to find something in the foreground to include. ...
I think you'll find that Peks carries a large boulder in the back of his car, but he's a big strong fellow. You can buy inflatable rocks from photographic stores now. I'm joking of course, but you'll gradually get your eye in looking for the elements of foreground interest. They can take all sorts of form and frequently you need to get down low to include them, which often gives a good point of view anyway. David
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scoundrel1728
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« Reply #69 on: March 9, 2011, 5:56 PM » |
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I think you'll find that Peks carries a large boulder in the back of his car, but he's a big strong fellow. You can buy inflatable rocks from photographic stores now.
I'm joking of course, but you'll gradually get your eye in looking for the elements of foreground interest. They can take all sorts of form and frequently you need to get down low to include them, which often gives a good point of view anyway.
Inflatable rocks may be a joke, but crews staging plays sometimes use papier maché ones. I suspect that such a stage prop would look fake when used as foreground in a landscape though.
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« Reply #70 on: March 9, 2011, 6:21 PM » |
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I think you'll find that Peks carries a large boulder in the back of his car, but he's a big strong fellow. You can buy inflatable rocks from photographic stores now.
I'm joking of course, but you'll gradually get your eye in looking for the elements of foreground interest. They can take all sorts of form and frequently you need to get down low to include them, which often gives a good point of view anyway.
Inflatable rocks may be a joke, but crews staging plays sometimes use papier maché ones. I suspect that such a stage prop would look fake when used as foreground in a landscape though. Yes, but so do many of Pekster's 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #71 on: March 9, 2011, 8:00 PM » |
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Harry, sorry you're feeling under the weather. Hope you feel better soon. Karen has given you good advise. Rest. Thanks for sharing those photos. I really like that effect. Its definitely going on my wish list. Take care. David, ha ha! I've actually thought about carrying around some boulders in the car so I'd always have something to stick in the foreground. Where DOES Pekster find all those wonderful boulders?! Most of the barn shots are taken from the road. There is only a ditch runnning along between me and the field. There are no rocks or shrubs . There's just nothing there to help make those photos more interesting. If I had photo shop maybe I could make the skies more interesting. That's on my wish list as well. It seems to be growing by the day. Sheryl 
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Hatter
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« Reply #72 on: March 9, 2011, 8:46 PM » |
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If I had photo shop maybe I could make the skies more interesting. That's on my wish list as well. Why not get the GIMP? http://www.gimp.orgIt does what Photoshop does... for free. 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #73 on: March 9, 2011, 8:59 PM » |
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Hatter, I've got Gimp but it won't do what I want it to do. I've looked up tutorials but it seems to be missing certain functions the tutorials ask for. I'm wondering if there are more than one Gimp and the tutorials I've downloaded don't match. That's why I'd like to try something else. Sheryl 
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Hatter
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« Reply #74 on: March 9, 2011, 10:26 PM » |
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I'm surprised, Sheryl. What do you want it to do do that it won't?
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Sheryl
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« Reply #75 on: March 10, 2011, 12:06 AM » |
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I have tried to make more dramatic skies with it. But there were 2 or 3 steps that were not in the Gimp that the tutorial called for. So I couldn't complete the task. I have forgotten what else I tried . Some time has passed. It was very frustrating. So after many attempts I finally gave up and now just use it to clone with. I'd have to look it all up to give you any more detail than that. I even sent a message to whoever posts the tutorial and told them about the problem but they did not respond.
Sheryl
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Hatter
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« Reply #76 on: March 10, 2011, 12:26 AM » |
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I suspect they're there - just in a different place, or there'll be a different way of doing the same thing. GIMP is actually a very powerful program if you take the time to learn it.
The only thing I can think of that isn't there is adjustment layers, but you can get the same effect by duplicating the normal layer and applying the adjustment to that.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #77 on: March 10, 2011, 12:39 AM » |
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The tutorial seemed very simple. I copied it down and then went to Gimp and tried to follow the directions step by step. First of all, I couldn't duplicate the background layer. There was no such setting. I could duplicate the photo. Then there was no blending mode. And I could not do the overlay step. It wasn't that I didn't understand the tutorial, it was that I couldn't find these settings. I can't remember any more than that without going back in there and going through the steps again.
Sheryl
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Hatter
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« Reply #78 on: March 10, 2011, 1:19 AM » |
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To duplicate the background (or any other) layer - just right click on the layer in the layers palette on the right of the screen as shown here:  That will give you a menu - which includes "duplicate layer". The layer mode is selected from the drop-down menu where it says 'normal" - it includes 'Overlay".
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Sheryl
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« Reply #79 on: March 10, 2011, 1:39 AM » |
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My screen looks nothing like your screen. I have Gimp 2. Does that make a difference? Mine does not say normal anywhere either.
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Anita
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« Reply #80 on: March 10, 2011, 3:26 AM » |
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Sheryl, Here's a tutorial I found that is suppose to work for Gimp or Gimp 2 either one. (about creating more dramatic skies). http://gimp-tutorials.net/flat-photograph/
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Harry7mc
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« Reply #81 on: March 10, 2011, 4:53 AM » |
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Sheryl, whar software came with your Nikon? they normally give Picture Project which is useful,also go to Nikon,s website & download View Nx2, FOC, you can learn a lot from these. I keep Nx2 on my computer!
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Hatter
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« Reply #82 on: March 10, 2011, 8:20 AM » |
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My screen looks nothing like your screen. I have Gimp 2. Does that make a difference? Mine does not say normal anywhere either.
This should be the default screen layout for GIMP 2.x. (The latest version is 2.6.11).  The layer palette is in the right hand window.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #83 on: March 10, 2011, 2:22 PM » |
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Thanks Anita, I'll check it out although I have already found a good tutorial for dramatic skies. Thanks Harry, I'll check into it. Gareth, That looks more like my screen only I have nothing on the right hand side at all. Mine just says plain Gimp 2 , no .x next to it. Thanks all, Sheryl 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #84 on: March 10, 2011, 2:42 PM » |
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Sorry, my mistake. My Gimp is a 2.6
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Neou
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« Reply #85 on: March 10, 2011, 2:48 PM » |
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Sounds like you need to open the Layers first. Should be on the Windows tab along the top.
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Hatter
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« Reply #86 on: March 10, 2011, 5:59 PM » |
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Sounds like you need to open the Layers first. Should be on the Windows tab along the top.
Yes - or you can go to Edit > Preferences > Window Management, then restore the default settings. 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #87 on: March 10, 2011, 7:58 PM » |
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Nowhere in my Gimp is there an edit. I've searched everywhere. Mine seems to be lacking . I wonder if I can download a different one? This is very frustrating. Now I've installed Nikon ViewNX 2 and when I clicked on it , it wouldn't open and the computer said there was a problem of some sort and that it would let me know when I could try again. I just want to give up! 
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Anita
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« Reply #88 on: March 10, 2011, 8:50 PM » |
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Sheryl, Here's the newest Gimp link.. version 2.6, I downloaded it to my computer to make sure it's the right one. http://www.gimp.org/downloads/  In your Nikon manual should be a # you can call for technical support & they should be able to troubleshoot & figure out why your Nikon ViewNX2 isn't working for you. Hope they get it figured out for you! 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #89 on: March 10, 2011, 9:06 PM » |
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Thanks Anita but the computer blocked that link and won't allow me to download. I did get the NX working.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #90 on: March 10, 2011, 9:08 PM » |
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Harry , the NX2 that came with my camera only gives me a place to store photos. Is it supposed to do anything else?
Sheryl
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« Reply #91 on: March 10, 2011, 9:15 PM » |
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Hmm, that is strange! Here's another site where you can fownload Gimp from, maybe your computer will let you do it from here.. I think this is the same link that Gareth may have suggested a few posts back as well. Hope this one works for you & so glad you got the NX2 working now! http://www.gimp.org/
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Hatter
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« Reply #92 on: March 10, 2011, 11:35 PM » |
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Nowhere in my Gimp is there an edit. Not here? 
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Sheryl
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« Reply #93 on: March 11, 2011, 12:26 AM » |
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If its there its being covered up by the tool box. And when I try to x out the tool box , it closes the whole site. I don't know how to get behind the tool box. Any suggestions?
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Hatter
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« Reply #94 on: March 11, 2011, 12:59 AM » |
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If its there its being covered up by the tool box. And when I try to x out the tool box , it closes the whole site. I don't know how to get behind the tool box. Any suggestions?
You should be able to just drag the tool box out of the way if it's covering some of the main window.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #95 on: March 11, 2011, 1:03 AM » |
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I will give it a try. 
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« Reply #96 on: March 11, 2011, 1:07 AM » |
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I was able to move it and I reset default settings. What will that do?
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« Reply #97 on: March 11, 2011, 5:55 PM » |
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Reset the default settings. You really need to read the help files,there are hundreds of pages. Getting started is the best place to start and learn a little at a time.Then have a go on one of your images. All the info is in help its just a matter of going through it. Its not that hard to get the basics. All the Best.
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Sheryl
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« Reply #99 on: March 11, 2011, 7:46 PM » |
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Thanks guys. 
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